Chimborazo: An Ecuadorian Restaurant Erupting with Flavor

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It adds a flair of highland character to know that owner and chef, Marcos Pinguil, christened his restaurant for a volcano. After all, other Ecuadorian dining places sport titles which include sabor, or Latina. However, those other dining places can’t boast the highest rating of any Ecuadorian restaurant in the Twin Cities, and the food itself is all Chimborazo needs to show that the items on the menu have both authentic and exceptional flavor. Just try the dish of chicken Saltado laced with spice and tang from the restaurant’s special marinades, or the dessert of moist Tres Leches cake, and you can discover the outstanding taste for yourself. 

     If you begin at the beginning, (which I strongly suggest because you don’t want to miss anything) the appetizers consist of options like Platano Maduro, Empanadas, and Yuca Frita, the last being fried cassava topped with garlic and citrus and served with Chimborazo’s special aji criollo—an Ecuadorian green hot sauce and signature side to nearly all the restaurant’s main dishes. It’s so popular among patrons that you can now buy bottles to take home. It’s also the perfect accompaniment to potato fries. Oh yes, I did say fries. 

      Unlike its Latin American cousin of Mexican cuisine, Ecuadorian food is more balanced, using a wide variety of vegetables, fruits, grains, and seafood. There is also greater emphasis placed on rice and potatoes. If you’re initially surprised to hear that potato fries are on the menu, it’s actually common. They are, of course, nothing like the American version, but thicker, with an outer crust and a steaming inside if you break one open. Like criollo, they’re paired with any number of Chimborazo’s entrées and appetizers in a thousand surprising and delicious ways. 

    But that’s hardly the beginning. The steaming dishes of rice, marinated meat, and seafood, along with vegetables in sauces that fairly burst with flavor, are the bulk of the main meal.

(Unless you choose Llapingachos Con Chorizo, or Chaulafan.) Don’t forget fresh curtido either. A crisp combination of lightly salted tomatoes and red onions soaked in lime juice is the perfect side dish.

      If you decide to visit while the brunch menu is out, there are even more options. You may never have had an Ecuadorian breakfast sandwich before, but you’ll recognize pancakes. Let me tell you, Chimborazo’s specialty pancakes with fresh mangoes cooked into the batter, are the best I have eaten anywhere—delectably moist, and sweet enough that they don’t require syrup. (But it’s still there if you want it.) 

      I do admit, I was slightly overwhelmed at first when faced with a menu of entrées I had never heard of before. What I’ve learned since my initial experience, is that Ecuadorian food isn’t exotic like some foreign cuisines. It’s simply rich in flavor. Most of the ingredients (aside from yuca or sweet plantain) are things you’ve probably eaten before—just not united in such a fantastic way.

     It is worth noting that dishes like the Saltado may be considered rather spicy. However, the menu is conveniently marked with an icon to advise diners of the heat index. For the most part, the spice is simply an unassuming, but critical addition to the general flavor. 

      One last thing cannot be ignored, and that is the atmosphere. Though Chimborazo is always filled, I have never once felt rushed or cramped. The inside is clean; it’s small and intimate. Framed photos of the Ecuadorian countryside and pressed Otavaleno textiles hang at strategic intervals along the walls, which are painted soft yellow or russet. There are two large areas inside for seating, and if the weather is agreeable, you can choose to go outdoors and eat in the covered area bordered by a fence of shoulder-height tin boxes of vibrant wildflowers. Watching snippets of traffic go by on 29th Avenue, you can enjoy a fruit smoothie or fresh limeade if you don’t have time for a meal or choose to impress your friends and try Saltado. Whatever you decide, Chimborazo will provide with you with an unforgettable journey of flair and flavor—one that erupts from the highest peak in Ecuador. And maybe that last is why the restaurant is called Chimborazo. 

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Rebecca Hope

Executive Director of Mid-Metro Academy, English Instructor, Journalism Teacher/Adviser

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